Glue opening mold

Opening mold is a highly required technology in jewelry factories because the quality of opening mold directly affects the quality of wax mold and metal blank, and also directly affects the service life of the mold. The plastic mold produced by the highly skilled mold opener has no deformation, fracture, and cloak after wax injection, and there is no need to repair and weld wax, which can save a lot of repair hours and obtain higher production efficiency.

The tools used in the glue opening mold are relatively simple, including scalpel and blade, tweezers, scissors, pointed nose pliers, etc. Note that beginners must use new blades when using the scalpel, so it is not easy to scratch their fingers. To ensure the lubrication between the blade and the green film mold during the cutting process, you can dip the blade in water or detergent (but never dip it in oil, because the oil will make the mold hard and brittle). The four-leg positioning method is usually used for the rubber mold, that is, the four legs of the opened rubber mold are matched and fixed with each other, and the parts between the four legs are cut by a straight line or curve. The general mold opening sequence (taking the ring mold as an example) is as follows:

1. When the pressed rubber mold is cooled until it is not hot, use scissors to cut off the flash, use pointed nose pliers to take out the water opening block, and pull off the scorched shell.

2. Erect the nozzle of the plastic mold upward, cut from one side of the nozzle, cut along the center line of the four sides of the plastic mold, with a depth of 3~5mm (which can be adjusted appropriately according to the size of the plastic mold), and cut the four sides of the plastic mold.

3. Cut the first foot from the first cut. First, cut two straight edges with a depth of 3~5mm (which can be adjusted appropriately according to the size of the plastic mold), then pull open the cut straight edge with force, and cut a beveled edge along 45 ° to form a right triangle-shaped foot. At this time, the two halves of the plastic mold of the incision should have corresponding female and male triangular feet that coincide with each other.

4. According to the operation process of the previous step, cut the remaining three feet in turn.

5. Pull open the first cut foot, and use the blade to cut steadily inward along the center line (if it is a curve cutting method, swing the blade according to a certain curve to draw a fish scale or wavy cutting surface), while cutting, pull the plastic mold outward. Be careful when reaching the nozzle line, gently lift the plastic mold with the tip of the knife to expose the nozzle. Then cut the ring along one end face of the ring's outer ring until the ring flower head and the inlay.

6. The cutting of flower heads is a difficult and complex step in the opening mold. If the main stone inlay is claw inlay, the cutting flower head should be cut along the axis of the two claws on one side of the flower head, and then cut to the end face of the ring outer ring on the other side of the flower head until it is cut to the nozzle position. At this time, the plastic mold has been cut in half, but the silver plate cannot be removed.

7. Cut the part of the plastic mold with inlays and flower heads. At the space between the two sides of the main stone and the auxiliary stone inlay, cut along the two claw axes cut outside the main stone inlay until the other two claws are symmetrical; Then cut along the remaining direction outside the main stone inlay, intersecting with the surface just cut, so that the main stone inlay is upright. Then cut a knife horizontally at the claw root of the main stone inlay and the auxiliary stone inlay to make the flower head into two parts. Open the cut part and observe whether there is any stretched glue wire (usually formed by the hole of the accessory stone inlay and the hollowed-out part of the flower head). If there is any, it should be cut off.

8. Remove the silver plate and observe whether there is glue wire adhesion between the silver plate and the glue mold. If there is, cut it off.

9. Open the bottom. Go deep into the whole circumference along the inner ring of the ring, so that the incision is close to the bottom, and does not cut through. Turn over the rubber mold, grasp both sides of the rubber mold with your fingers and bend towards the incision direction. You can observe the circumferential incision of the inner ring and the incision marks of the inlay and flower head part (because it is not cut thoroughly, the remaining rubber stretch to form a slightly concave shallow mark). Cut along these traces to the position of the corresponding nozzle, and then cut a long strip with a width of 8~12mm along the parallel direction of the nozzle, and the length is close to the nozzle. At this time, the bottom forms a mushroom-like shape, and the inner part of the ring can be pulled out from the cut bottom. Only in this way can the wax mold be taken out smoothly.

The pressed rubber mold should be carefully checked again. Note that there should be no defects in the mold, such as broken flowers, missing corners, adhesion, etc. These may cause defects in wax molds, so these defects should be repaired, such as cutting uncut positions, repairing broken flowers, and missing feet with a wax welder. In addition, for the original with a complex structure, the cutting surface should be adjusted according to the specific situation. For example, for multi-layer plate inlaid jewelry, it should be cut in layers, and sometimes it is necessary to cut the sleeve core; For multi-layer pendants, large and complex chain cards, there is no need to open the bottom, and they can be layered directly, etc. The storage environment of the plastic mold should be low temperature and dark, and the influence of oils and acids should be avoided. If it is not used very frequently, the plastic mold can be used for ten years. However, if it is used frequently, it is generally not used after two years of use, because the rubber mold has hardened due to repeated wax injection and heating, and the use effect is greatly reduced. Coupled with the consideration of style changes, the service life of the general rubber mold is between 2~3 years.

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